
Frequently Asked Questions
You Have Questions?
We Have Answers
Select A Topic To Jump To Its FAQ
Attic Insulation
What does “R-Value” mean?
The R-value of a material is a measure of its thermal resistance – you can think of it as the “insulating power” of the material. The higher the R-value, the greater the insulating power!
How much attic insulation do I need?
What R-value should my attic be?
What R-value should my attic be?
We recommend a minimum attic insulation R-value of R-49. This is achieved by a minimum final insulation depth of 16.75″ with the material that we typically install when insulating attics (Owens Corning PROPINK L77 Loosefill Fiberglass).
This recommendation is based off of the International Residential Construction Code (IRCC) recommendation for our climate zone here in the Boise area. We’ve found that an R-49 is the best balance of upfront cost and long-term efficiency and comfort for most homeowners we work with (and the building science data backs this up). If you’re planning on living in your home for more than 7-10 years it’s worth considering bringing your attic insulation up to R-60, which is going to yield the best long-term savings in energy efficiency and is a sure way to keep your home comfortable & efficient year-round.
The minimum R-value required by most local building codes in the Boise area is R-38. This lower requirement is due to builders having a heavy influence over which new building codes get adopted each year, and if you know how most builders operate then you know they’re always looking to cut costs wherever possible. While you can usually get by with R-38 attic insulation, it’s likely that your AC & furnace will struggle to keep your home comfortable and your energy bills will be higher than necessary year-round.
What’s more important,
insulation depth or R-value?
insulation depth or R-value?
R-Value! Insulation depth means nothing without knowing the R-value of the material.
For example, when installed to manufacturer’s specifications blown-in fiberglass insulation produced by CertainTeed requires a minimum installed depth of 18.25 inches to achieve an R-49 while Owens Corning’s blown-in fiberglass only requires a minimum depth of 16.75 inches.
What is the best type of attic insulation?
Is fiberglass or cellulose insulation better?
Is fiberglass or cellulose insulation better?
Blown-in fiberglass insulation is a much better choice than cellulose for attic insulation in terms of both upfront cost and long-term performance.
This is a long-standing debate in the insulation industry that takes a lot more than a couple of lines to fully explain, but the short answer is that improvements in the material science of fiberglass insulation production and the deterioration of the source material quality for cellulose insulation (recycled newsprint) means that modern fiberglass insulation is a much better choice than cellulose in the vast majority of cases.
What type of attic insulation do you install?
We install blown-in fiberglass and fiberglass batt insulation.
Is batt/roll or blown-in insulation better for my attic?
Blown-in insulation is almost always a much better choice than batts when insulating an attic for two main reasons:
- More Even Coverage – batt insulation leaves gaps around attic framing, pipes, and wires, leading to thermal bridging and resulting in a lower effective R-value than the even, consistent coverage achieved by blown-in insulation
- Lower Labor Cost To Install – properly installing batt insulation requires a lot of time spent cutting material around framing, wiring, pipes, and vents while blowing in insulation is a much more routine process
How long does it take to insulate an attic?
In most cases we can complete an attic insulation project in 4-6 hours. The time it takes to insulate an attic ultimately depends on the size and complexity of the space, but you can typically expect us to be working in your home for about half a day.
Floor Insulation
What does “R-Value” mean?
The “R-value” of a material is a measure of its thermal resistance – you can think of it as its “insulating power” of the material. The higher the R-value, the greater the insulating power!
What R-value should my floors be?
When possible, we recommend insulating floors to an R-value of R-30. This is based off of the International Residential Construction Code (IRCC) recommendation for our climate zone here in the Boise area and we’ve found that R-30 floor insulation yields the best results for homeowners we’ve worked with in the past.
What type of insulation is best for floors?
Fiberglass batt insulation is the most cost-effective type of insulation when insulating the floors of your existing home.
How important is floor insulation?
While not as important as attic insulation, insulating your floors will help keep you comfortable and improve the energy efficiency of your home, especially in the winter.
How long does it take to insulate floors?
Our install time for floor insulation varies based on the size of your home and complexity of your crawlspace, but we can typically insulate the floors of homes under 2000 square feet in one day and 2000-4000 square feet in two days.
Wall Insulation
How do I know if my walls are insulated?
If your home was built in the 70s or later, your exterior walls are almost certainly insulated. Whether or not your interior walls are insulated is entirely up to the discretion of your builder – most good builders will insulate bathroom and bedroom walls for soundproofing.
Garage walls are rarely insulated, even in brand new homes. (If building code doesn’t require something a builder probably isn’t going to spend the money to do it, even if it would be useful).
The only way to be 100% sure if a wall in your home is insulated is to check for yourself. The easiest & least destructive way to do this is to drill a small hole (3/8″ is usually a good size) in the wall you’d like to check. While drilling your “check hole”, push the drill bit all the way into the wall (aim to go about 2″ deep) and keep the drill running as you pull it out. If the wall is insulated, this should make the drill bit grab a bit of insulation on its way out so you can see what’s in there without trying to peek through that tiny hole.
How long will it take you to insulate my walls?
In most cases we can complete a wall insulation project in 4-6 hours, but this ultimately depends on how many walls we’re insulating and the complexity of the wall’s framing (more complex framing requires more insulation fill holes to be cut and patched).
What R-Value can you insulate existing walls to?
We can insulate walls with 2×4 framing to R-15 and walls with 2×6 framing to R-21 – the same R-Values that can be reached when installing batt insulation into walls during the initial construction process.
Can you add more insulation to walls that are already insulated?
When there’s already insulation in a wall, there’s nothing that we can do to add more. In this case you have two main options:
- Option 1: Injection spray foam
- – Pro: In theory, injection spray foam can work its way past the existing insulation in your walls then push it out of the way as it expands.
- – Con: We’ve heard mixed results from people who have had this done, and it is quite expensive.
- Option 2: Remove the drywall and start from scratch
- – Pro: You can insulate your wall perfectly (how your builder should have done it in the first place).
- – Con: You’ll have to tear-down the drywall on every wall you want to re-insulate, then install new drywall and re-finish the wall when you’re done.
What type of wall insulation do you install?
We install blown-in fiberglass insulation into existing walls (ones that have already been drywalled and finished) and can install either blown-in fiberglass or fiberglass batt insulation into open walls that have not yet had drywall installed.
What is the best type of insulation for walls?
Should I use fiberglass or cellulose?
Should I use fiberglass or cellulose?
Blown-in fiberglass insulation is a much better choice than cellulose for attic insulation in terms of both upfront cost and long-term performance.
Cellulose insulation settles up to 20% over time, leaving the top of your walls with a major gap in their insulation after a few years. Modern fiberglass insulation doesn’t settle at all, so your walls will stay just as efficient years down the road as they were the day they were first insulated.
What does “R-Value” mean?
The R-value of a material is a measure of its thermal resistance – you can think of it as the “insulating power” of the material. The higher the R-value, the greater the insulating power!
Insulation Removal
How do I know if I need insulation removal?
When is insulation removal worth it?
When is insulation removal worth it?
Most people don’t need to have their old insulation removed and when upgrading your attic insulation we can simply add more on top of what is already there, but there are a few situations where insulation removal is the best option for your home.
Recovering From Water Damage or Mold in the Attic or Crawlspace:
– Removing your old moldy or water-damaged insulation after a roof leak, burst pipe, or other moisture issue is the only way to prevent recurring mold issues in your attic or crawlspace in the long-term
Maximizing Energy Efficiency in a Home Built Before 2006:
Removing the old insulation in your attic or crawlspace gives us access to your attic floor or subfloor, where we can air-seal all of the gaps in your home’s wall top plates and electrical, plumbing, & duct penetrations. According to the Department of Energy, properly air sealing these places can save you 10-20% or more on your annual energy bills while reducing drafts in your home. See the DOE Air Sealing Report Here.
Improving Indoor Air Quality in a Dusty or Musky Home:
The same air-sealing process that improves the efficiency of your home also improves your indoor air quality by stopping air from passing through these gaps and into your home, carrying the decades of dust, dirt, and funky smells that have built up in your old insulation
Will my home get dirty during insulation removal?
From the way we set up to the equipment we use, we do everything possible to keep your home clean during every insulation removal project. All insulation is fully contained as it travels from your attic or crawlspace to our disposal trailer, so you can rest assured that your home will stay clean throughout the process.
How long does it take to remove insulation?
In most cases we can complete an attic or crawlspace insulation removal project in one day. The time it takes ultimately depends on the size and complexity of the space, but you can typically expect us to be working in your home for a full day.
Can I be home during insulation removal?
Yes, you’re completely safe being in your home while we’re removing your old insulation. The only interruption to your day will be the path from your crawlspace or attic access being covered with canvas to protect your floors while we make trips back and forth to our trailer throughout the day, leaving your front or garage door propped open, and the sound of our removal vacuum outside if we’re removing your old attic insulation.
Do you remove asbestos/vermiculite insulation?
No, we do not remove asbestos/vermiculite insulation – for our safety and yours.
If you have asbestos insulation in your attic, we recommend contacting a company that specializes in asbestos abatement – they have highly specialized equipment to ensure that the asbestos dust is completely contained throughout the process.
Crawlspace Vapor Barrier
What does a crawlspace vapor barrier do?
A crawlspace vapor barrier prevents moisture in the ground from evaporating up into your crawlspace. Moisture in your crawlspace can lead to mold growth, damaging your home’s air quality and eventually causing structural damage to your home.
What material should a crawlspace vapor barrier be?
Your crawlspace vapor barrier should be made of 6mil (or thicker) black polyethylene sheeting.
What type of tape should be used to seal a crawlspace vapor barrier?
All seams of the vapor barrier should be sealed with a polyethylene tape specifically designed for use in crawlspace vapor barriers. Here’s a link to Blue Summit Supplies Vapor Barrier Tape, the tape we use on every install.
How do I know if my current vapor barrier is good enough?
If your vapor barrier completely covers your crawlspace floor, all of its seams are taped, and is free of any splits or tears, you can rest assured that it’s doing its job. If not, it’s likely letting ground moisture evaporate up into your crawlspace.
How long does it take you to install a crawlspace vapor barrier?
Our install time for a crawlspace vapor barrier varies based on the size of your home and complexity of your crawlspace, but we can usually install a crawlspace vapor barrier in one day of work or less, typically ranging from 4-8 hours.
Solar Attic Fans
How do I know if a solar attic fan is right for my home?
A solar attic fan will benefit your home if you meet the following conditions:
Sun Exposure
Since they’re powered by an integrated solar panel, solar attic fans need to be facing the sun to be effective. You’ll want to make sure one of your roof decks faces South or West and isn’t in the shade in the afternoon.
Attic Volume
Any active attic ventilation is most effective when there’s at least a few feet of space between your roof deck and the ceiling inside of your home. If you have a low-slope roof with very little attic volume then most of the heat being transferred to your ceiling is via radiation from the underside of the roof deck, which attic ventilation doesn’t do much to reduce.
Attic Air Sealing
Active attic ventilation depressurizes your attic via the Bernoulli effect. If your attic isn’t air sealed (most aren’t in homes built in the Boise area before 2006), this lower pressure will pull your indoor air up into your attic. While this will cool down your attic, it does so with the air you’re paying to keep cool with your AC.
The best solution to this is removing your old insulation and air sealing your attic floor, a more cost-effective option is air sealing your home from the interior (which doesn’t require insulation removal). Either way, you’ll want to make sure your home is properly air sealed before installing any active attic ventilation.
Do solar attic fans qualify for any tax credits?
Yes, solar attic fans qualify for a 26% tax credit on the total cost of the fan, including install. This credit can be claimed regardless of whether or not you itemize your tax returns with IRS Form 5695, linked here. Enter the total cost of your solar attic fan on line 1 of this form and follow the instructions for the rest of the form.
WARNING: This tax credit applies only to your solar attic fan, not your entire insulation project. Contrary to what some insulation contractors claim, having a solar attic fan installed while insulating your home does not qualify the entire project cost for a 26% tax credit.
What type of solar attic fans do you install?
We only install solar attic fans manufactured by Natural Light Energy Systems.
Our preferred model is their 35W Ultra Low Profile Solar Attic Fan, but models with adjustable solar panels and gable-mounted models are available if they are the best option for your home. You can see all models of solar attic fans manufactured by Natural Light Energy Systems here
All solar attic fans we install come with a lifetime warranty from the manufacturer.
How many solar attic fans should I install on my home?
For the average home and the primary type of fan that we install, one solar attic fan can effectively ventilate 2400 square feet of attic area.
The number of attic fans required to keep your attic well ventilated ultimately depends on your home’s total attic air volume. Calculating this can be a bit complicated, so basing your ventilation requirements on your attic’s square footage is a reliable shortcut for the average home.
Do the solar attic fans you install have a warranty?
Yes, the solar attic fans we install come with a lifetime warranty from the manufacturer. You can learn more on the manufacturer’s website, linked here.
How long does it take to install a solar attic fan?
It usually take us about one hour to install a solar attic fan.
Do you have to connect the attic fan to my home’s electrical system?
No, the solar attic fans we installed are completely self-contained and don’t require any additional electrical connections.
Should I have a temperature switch installed on my attic fan?
We don’t recommend having a temperature switch on your attic fan because this prevents it from running in the winter, when it could be working to prevent ice dams on your roof and moisture buildup in your attic.